LA ALBERCA, Spain — Ham, oh glorious ham. This village — actually the whole region —
is known for it. The best hams are the “black leg” — hocks of Iberian black pigs who only eat acorns. Slice it molecule thin and it wraps around your tongue — earthy, deeply flavored, mildy fatty, rich.
The whole town resonates as a collective homage to the pig. Word has it that La Alberca, whose name was derived from an Arabic word, was for centuries a place where people of all faiths and backgrounds lived in harmony. That was, until the Spanish Inquisition reared its murderous head. Then, as a sign of good faith to their Catholic neighbors, resident Jewish and Muslim residents raised money and donated a pig to the village — something their respective faiths forbade them from enjoying themselves.
Since then, it’s been a tradition in the village to have a pig roam freely for a year and for the locals to take responsiblity for it — to feed it and befriend it. Then they kill it at the new year and another pig is selected to be the lucky oinker for the next year. To this day, a pig roams the plaza at will, as well as sleeps there. I happened to catch himself one afternoon while he was napping.
Meanwhile, a stone pig sculpture awaits young lovers in the plaza. According to local legend, if a couple wishing to start a family touches the stone pig’s testicles at midnight they’re sure to conceive. Mmm hmmmm.






